Crack On!

2005 Nuts Across the Bay 12k - we were taken by bus to Sausalito, ran under the Golden Gate Bridge, then up a challenging hill (mountain) to get onto the bridge, then ran on the GG Bridge into SF, then into the Presidio and then the Marina to finish. Beautiful day, view, run!! 

Catherine and Kristian at Bow Bow in China Town 

Elsie and Kristian with Candy at Bow Bow 

Enjoying a bit of Cava after the tour of Codorniu 

John with Tourist Friends at Park Guell 

Barcelona 2005 - John and Emily at la Sagrada Familia 

Barcelona 2005 - Un Cortado! 

We have proven our rail worthiness. Yesterday we used the Metro to cross town, and today we mastered the rails. We left mid morning and strolled the to Plaza de Catalunya station to find the train to St Sadurnai Noia. It would take us out of the city into the countryside, into the hills and valleys where Cava was born. Cava, the spanish version of champagne, the sparkling white wine that is typical of the region. There are several bodegas in the area, including Freixenet which is familiar to the US, and several others. Our stop was about 30 minutes out of the city. We passed some outlying neighborhoods of apartment building and other housing, some nice, some less so. Then some countryside, some industrial areas, and random neighborhoods.

At St. Sadurni we walked into the town, about a 1/2 mile from the station, found the tourist office and hooked up with a tour of the Codorniu winery. They have a huge underground facility of tanks and racks and caves and tunnels. The dark stone tunnels were lined with racks of aging dusty bottles, waiting to be racked, have the sediment removed after much settling, and then take the laverne and Shirley trip down a series of conveyor belts to have the sediment frozen, plug removed, capped, foiled, labeled... all in a dizzy blur of belts and twirling tippers. It was an excellent tour finished appropriately with a glass of Cava.

The woman at the tourist office had told us that Coderniu was about 1km from the office. Since the tour was in 15 minutes we called for a taxi. Luckily, since it was more like 2 miles! We would never have made the tour. By the way, the tour was in Spanish, accented with Catalan. Needless to say my acting skills came in handy - a knowing nod, an exaggerated 'yes, yes' head shaking. Of course I understood less than 10%, but then again, the tour was more about SEEING than lectures! Actually it was. The building was old, and was designed by a contemporary of Gaudi. The brick building had interesting arches and angles, beautiful tunnels, glass, light shafts. Truly amazing.

We dined in town at a little restaurant, once again braving an unintelligle menu, but lucked out with a good meal. The town itself is very nice. Small, empty of tourists this time of year, like a small cobblestone streeted village, with old churches and other buildings.

Tomorrow La Sagrada Familia, housecleaning and laundry (oh fun) as we will prepare to take off.

Hola. Hoy vemos La Pedrera y es muy fantastico! We saw La Pedrera, an apartment building designed by Gaudi, not far from where we are staying. We took the audio tour (very good idea) and toured through the attic, the rooftop and the 4th floor. It is the building, on a corner, with wavy balcony fronts, with amazing metal guardrails. Very organic and curvy, build around 2 central lightwells to bring light into the center of all of the units. It is quite amazing. We also ran around Psg Gracia shopping, and down into El Born. We got off the map and later this eve we even got lost. After finding ourselves strolling down these crazy narrow cobblestown alleys with shops and tourists, we managed to find ourselves alone, yes alone, practically screaming 'rob me, please!!' We had walked down to the water. Then we found our way back to La Ramblas and up, but after taking another alley trying to find a certain Tapas bar, we again were lost. This time we were faced with a large street of auto traffic that we did not recognize. We had to ask for assistance from the police! Anyway, we made it back, then walked back to our hood expecting to eat at Domestic, a local place that CONTINUES to THWART us!!! Last night it was 'es una fiesta privada (for develop disabled...) and tonight, esta cerrado! So we ate at Flauta (here a flauta is a long narrow skinny sandwich), they offered salads, tapas, flautas and big dishes. It was a fine deal and back home early like a good tourist. These people, what a schedule. When we came home earlier from shopping, between 4 or 5, the streets were deserted, and shops closed. Then after siesta when we ventured out for more shopping, strolling and eating, the streets were ablaze with cars and people in a hurry. When we ate dinner at 8 ish, you would think a bomb had dropped, no one in sight; they can't make it out to eat until 10 ish or later!!

I have added a few to the shutterfly album, link below. We visited the Park Guell yesterday, (us and 10,000 maniacs!!). I have a choice pic of me with my throng at the famous lizard\dragon sculpture crawling down the stairs of the Park. We really enjoyed the tile work, the crazy curvy bench, the view from the top, seeing it in person. Very lovely. We also visited the damn tram, and the funicular, to Tibidabo, a sure miss for future visits. That and the bad lunch experience (you must have at least one bad meal on vacation, yes?). Back in the city last night we discovered that grocery stores and tapas cafes tend to be shuttered on Sunday eve. Few choices, but we had a nice meal and tucked in early. A bit of the jet lag seems to jolt us awake for some quiet contemplation between the hours of 5-7 am, then out like a coma victim. Not what I expected.

More Gaudi today, and Shopping! Ciao amores.

oyeme. miralos photos:

http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeAN2bduxas2TCMg

The first night we arrived, after world spanning flights and wandering around the city, we settled in for a jet lag recovery snooze only to be rudely awakened in the night by a host of noises. The night wind picked up like a crazy man, and since we are in an apt on the backside of the bldg on the 7th floor, there is a tiny balcony. The landlord installed a washer out there, and created an awning on a wood frame with plastic sheeting, like the corrugated tin roof, but plastic. Sadly, a few of the fasteners are gone, so when the wind picked up that sheet of heavy plastic womped and thumped and slammed like a metal door being slammed against a shipping container. I thought I would go insane. Add to that the loud mechanical rumbling, slamming and crashing of the elevator,so loud you would think you were sleeping IN the elevator. Now the plastic has been synched down with a coat hanger, and insulated with balls of plastic bag tied in place. Some ear plugs and a Tylenol PM are all that is needed now for a good night sleep.

We did what any good tourist does in Barcelona: after strolling down Gracia and las Ramblas we arrived at a little cafe for a cortado and a pasty. A french tourist told us of her first day back in Barcelona, while one man distracted her another grabbed her purse and ran. Only due to the luck of a policeman going by was the turista reunited with her bag. Her lesson to us was clear (don't be a clueless french lady in Barcelona with everything you own in a large purse...well maybe that is not the lesson she intended to relate.) Back to my story, we did what every good tourist does, we boarded the autobus turistica, for a whirlwind tour of the city. It take you around to all the hot tourist spots, you can jump on and off and it provides for a good overview of the sites, and gives you a much better understanding of the layout of the city. There are several places we will return to on foot mid week, taking advantage of the central location of our apt. After a day of touring we returned for siesta, then strolled the neighborhood to hit the supermercado and find the good spots in the hood. Hard to believe the bars and restaurants open later and stay open so late. At 5 or 6 they are all closed up, then later crowded. Tonight our mission is a few good bars, tapas, and a late dinner. Tomorrow we will visit some of the more famous Gaudi sites: la Sagrada Familia, Park Guell, etc.


Earlier today we got off the bus in the Ribera\Born area. Amazing buildings, cool shops, great little cafes in pedestrian plazas near old cathedrals, sneaky little alleys. We had some tapas and later amazing chocolate. Loving it.

I was a bit optimistic about the weather. While it is still clear, no rain, it is hardly 50 during the day - maybe in the direct sun without wind, but honestly more like 40, and in the eve I would say 30-40 ayeeee.

Ciao

Estamos Aqui in Barcelona!! Emily flew from SFO to Amsterdam, leaving thurs afternoon, 10 hour flight into the mousetrap maze that is called Schippol Airport. After about a 1.5 mile walk up and down and around and over we made it to gate D85 for our flight to Barcelona. We both took carry on only - but her idea of Carry on is much larger than mine, lordy. Then a quick cab to the apt in the city. From the outskirts, the construction zones, and the large clusters of high rise low rent apts was not appealing, but as we inched further into the city things looked up. Some amazing buildings and balconies... We are staying in the apt of a friend, near the university, in the Eixample area but close to las ramblas and the old city bario goti...so now we are freshening up and heading out to check out the hood and get supplies!! PS tenemos mucho bueno suerte - it is sunny, about 50, and no rain. Let's hope it stays that way.

Adios, Juan